One of the most-read bloggers in the world is the Baghdad Blogger known by his pseudonym, Salam Pax, which means peace in both Arabic and Latin. Since 2002, from the grim final days of Saddam Hussein's dictatorship, through the 'shock and awe' bombing campaign that rained down on his home, and up through today's continuing violence and chaos, he has aired his observations and opinions. He was the digital voice of the average Iraq. And many of those missives ended up in an international best-seller last year.

Today Ted Koppel got a tour of Baghdad from Salam Pax and saw a Baghdad few western journalists ever see. It was from this vantage point that Nightline is able to show you how Iraqis are coping with the many newfound freedoms and challenges that the war has brought: freedom to open businesses, freedom of religion and freedom of speech.